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2007-03-11 DIY CDI Trigger Article |
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| Extract of another SC article which deals with a simple programmable TCI with nearly the same trigger input circuits than DIY-CDI. Good for us, the trigger circuits are describted in more details than the DIY-CDI article. | |||||
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DIY-CDI Trigger Systems based on a similar TCI This Article shows a variety of trigger inputs. |
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| The DIY-CDI will not only will work with traditional points but will also happily function with any type of trigger signal including those provided by factory and after-market reluctor, optical and Hall Effect distributors. It will even interface with an ECU ignition output trigger, making it a universal fit for all single coil cars, motorcycles and go-karts. It's the ideal upgrade for an old points ignition system or it can be used to replace a defective factory ignition module for as little as one-fifth of the price. | |||||
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Main Features
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Input triggers The way in which points work is easy enough to understand but what's all this about reluctor, optical and Hall Effect sensors?
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New design features
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Circuit description IC1 accepts its timing signal at the RB0 input (pin
6). The three inputs at RA1, RA4 and RA5 (pins 18, 3 & 5) are for the linking options. Link LK1 selects whether the firing edge for the RB0 input is for a positive going voltage (standard selection) or for a falling voltage (inverted selection); link LK3 selects normal or points operation. Transistor Q3 provides a tachometer output and it is driven from the trigger input which also drives pin 6 (RBO) of IC1. Q3's collector is pulled up to 12V with a 2.2kOhm resistor when the transistor is off. The output at Q3's collector can be used to drive most tachometers. An impulse tachometer (now very rare) requires a different connection and should operate when connected to the coil negative. Power for the circuit is derived from the ignition
switch. This 12V supply is also directly used for other parts of the
circuit. For example, it is used for the points trigger circuit and
the 100Ohm base resistor for Q1. |
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Trigger inputsThe Electronic Ignition is configured for the appropriate trigger input during construction. The six possible input circuits are shown in Fig.3. Fig.3: the six input trigger circuits:
(a) points triggering; (b) Hall effect (and Lumenition) triggering;
(c) triggering from an engine management module; (d) reluctor pickup;
(e) Crane optical pickup; and (f) Piranha optical pickup.
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The Hall Effect input at Fig.3(b) uses a 100Ohm supply resistor to the 12V rail to feed the Hall sensor. This resistor limits current into the unit should a transient on the supply go above its internal clamping diode level. The 1kOhm resistor on the output pulls up the output voltage to 5V when the internal open-collector transistor is off. The voltage is at 0V when the internal transistor is on. The same circuit can be used for the Lumenition optical module. The engine management input circuit is shown in Fig.3(c) and is quite simple its 5V signal connects to the trigger section of the main circuit in Fig.2. Reluctor sensors produce an AC signal and so require a more complex input circuit, see Fig.3(d). In this case, transistor Q4 switches on or off, depending on whether the reluctor voltage is positive or negative. Initially with no reluctor voltage, transistor Q4 is switched on via current through VR2 and the 47kOhm resistor. |
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The voltage applied to Q4's base is dependent on the 10kOhm resistor connecting to the top of the reluctor coil and the internal resistance of the reluctor. VR2 is included to provide for a wide range of reluctor types. Some reluctors have a relatively low resistance, while others have a higher resistance. In practice, VR2 is adjusted so that Q4 is just switched on when there is no signal from the reluctor. The 10kOhm resistor provides a load for the reluctor, while the 470pF capacitor filters any RF or hash signal that may have been induced. The 2.2nF capacitor ensures that Q4 quickly switches off when the reluctor signal goes negative. Optical pickup circuits are provided for two different types of modules. One is for a module that has a common 0V supply connection [eg, Crane Fig.3(e)] and the other for a module that has a common positive supply [eg, Piranha (Fig.3(f)] . In each case, current for the LED is supplied via a 120Ohm resistor and the photodiode and a 22kOhm resistor are connected in series with the 5V supply. |
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Construction Depending on the type of trigger input, there are six different component layouts for the PC board choose the one that is applicable to your car's trigger sensor. For example, if your car has reluctor distributor, follow the component layout of Fig.9. If it has a Hall Effect device or Lumenition distributor (same thing), use the layout of Fig.10. Q1 is mounted at full lead length, with its metal flange toward the edge of the PC board. |
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InstallationNext, set VR1 fully anti-clockwise, then switch on the ignition and check that there is 5V between pins 5 & 14 on the IC socket. Reluctor settingsIf you are using the reluctor circuit, adjust VR2 fully clockwise and measure the voltage at pin 6 of IC1. If the voltage is close to 0V, wind VR2 anti-clockwise several turns until the voltage goes to 5V. That done, wind it about two turns more anti-clockwise and leave VR2 at this setting. If the voltage is 5V when VR2 is fully clockwise, rotate VR2 fully anti-clockwise and start to wind it clockwise until the voltage goes to 5V again. Then wind it two more turns clockwise. That done, switch off the ignition and connect Q1's collector wire to the ignition coil's negative. StartingNow try to start the engine. If it doesn't want to start, the sensor signal may be inverted. This can happen with Hall Effect sensors and optical sensors if the output voltage goes low at the point of firing. In this case, change link LK1 to the "invert" position. |
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Converting From Points To A Hall Effect
Sensor |
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For this to happen, the rotating vane needs to be cup-shaped. The horizontal face has a hole to allow it to be placed on the distributor shaft and locate with the rotor button. The vertical section needs to have slots cut in it to appropriately trigger the sensor. The number of slots on the vane equals the number of spark-plugs for which the distributor caters. So a 4-cylinder car with four spark plugs will use four slots. These slots need to be evenly spaced around the circumference of the rotating vane. It is essential to be accurate here, as a 1° difference between slots represents 2° on the engine. A 4-cylinder engine will have each slot positioned 90° apart. 6-cyclinder and V8 cars will require slots spaced 60° and 45° apart, respectively.
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Making The DiskMaking the disk is easier if you can start off with something that is already preformed. We used the tin-plated backing from a high power potentiometer. A suitable one is the Jaycar RP-3975 15W potentiometer. This provides us with a cup that is 40mm in diameter. All that is required is to drill out a hole in the top for the distributor shaft and cut the slots in the side. |
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When this has been done, the Halsensor can be mounted on the distributor advance plate. The sensor needs to be located so that the centre of its slot is 20mm away from the centre of the distributor shaft. This will allow the 40mm diameter cup to spin without fouling the Hall sensor. Drill the two holes in the distributor advance plate and countersink the holes on the underside of the plate. This will allow space for the rivets in the Hall sensor to be peened over. Before riveting, check that the Hall Effect wires do not foul against the points cam (this happened in the distributor we were modifying!). To prevent this, the wires were passed under the Hall sensor by filing a small channel beneath the sensor, so that the wires could be fed through to the other side. The wires were then fed through a grommet in the distributor's body. |
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| The rotating vane should
be placed over the distributor shaft and should sit on the top of the
points camshaft. Check that there is sufficient clearance between the
vanes and Hall sensor gap. If the cup needs to be higher than this,
it can be placed over the rotor button shaft.
In this case, the rotating vane must be electrically connected to the distributor shaft to prevent static build up which may damage the Hall sensor. A small piece of tinplate soldered to the vane and bent so it passes up inside the rotor button to make contact with the distributor shaft is suitable. When the Hall Effect sensor has been mounted, place the rotating cup over the distributor shaft and hold it in place with the rotor button. Check that the vane spins freely through the Hall sensor slot.
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Now you are ready to align the disk. Rotate the rotor button to the alignment marks set previously. Remember, these indicate the centre position of the rotor button at Number 1 cylinder timing. Move the rotating vane relative to the rotor button so that the gap is just leaving the centre of the Hall Effect sensor. Note that you must be turning the distributor in the direction that it travels when installed in the car. Mark the position on the rotating vane and rotor button using a marking pen (do not use a scriber on the rotor button or the high tension voltage may travel down this). We soldered in a couple of PC stakes inserted into holes drilled in the top of the vane, to align the vane position – these keyed into the locating slot in the rotor button. |
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Glueing The VaneFinally, the rotating vane can be glued to the bottom of the rotor button using high-temperature epoxy resin. We used JB Weld epoxy steel resin, a 2-part epoxy. This is suitable for temperatures of up to 260°C. The quick-setting version can be used for temperatures up to 150°C. |
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Parts List - Trigger Systems |
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This page was designed
by Auke Dost
http://www.adservices.nl for free. Thanks. |
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